The Colonial Roots of ‘Curry’

When we think of Indian food, the word that often comes to mind is ‘curry’.

Curry is usually the name given to an Indian dish with a sauce or gravy seasoned with spices.

Rich, aromatic dishes that are infused with spices and cooked to perfection are seen as hallmarks of Indian cuisine.

These dishes are usually served with rice, naan or roti.

Although these Indian dishes have become a global favourite, the reality is that ‘curry’ is not an Indian word.

In fact, none of India’s major pre-colonial languages contain the term.

So how did this foreign word become synonymous with Indian food?

Curry’s Colonial Origins

The first recorded use of the word ‘curry’ in relation to Indian food dates back to the arrival of the Portuguese in India.

Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama reached Calicut, on the Malabar Coast, in 1498. This marked the beginning of European and British influence on Indian cuisine.

Researcher Lizzie Collingham said:

“When you really dig deep, nobody really knows where [the word] curry comes from.”

She explained that the Portuguese were the first to apply the term to Indian dishes. The British later adopted it and used it as a blanket term for the food eaten by Indians.

Dr Collingham explained: “Curry was a word the Portuguese used and then when the British picked it up… That’s what they called any dish that an Indian [person] ate.”

But while the colonisers used the word freely, Indian people did not.

Traditional Indian dishes had distinct names based on their ingredients, cooking methods, and regional origins.

The Colonisation of Indian Cuisine

Indian cuisine evolved significantly due to colonisation and migration.

Some ingredients now considered essential to Indian cooking were introduced by foreign powers.

For example, Portuguese traders brought chillies from the Americas, changing the way Indians added heat to their dishes. Before chillies, black and long pepper were the primary sources of spice.

Dr Collingham said: “Brahmins wouldn’t have used onion and garlic because they were considered rather heating and dangerous foods for spiritual people.”

However, the ruling classes consumed meat and spiced their food generously.

Over time, new ingredients became part of Indian culinary traditions, blending local customs with foreign influences.

The Creation of Curry Powder

The British expanded their presence in India, transitioning from traders to colonial rulers.

Indian cooks working for British families adapted their traditional recipes to suit British palates.

Dr Collingham said: “It was too spicy and too difficult for the English to digest… So they adapted their dishes to meet British tastes.”

The British loved these dishes and tried to replicate them back in Britain but they found being authentic to the process was too labour-intensive.

To simplify Indian cooking for home use, the British created curry powder, which is a pre-mixed blend of spices.

Dr Collingham added:

“They [the British] have this awful way of whatever they touch, they tend to homogenise.”

“So they fry some onions, they dump in some curry powder, they dump in some meat and water, and they stew it… And that’s what the British call curry.”

How Authentic is Indian Cuisine?

Indian food is deeply tied to regional and seasonal produce.

Each dish reflects the local ingredients and traditions of the people who make it.

Chef Helly Raichura, owner of Melbourne’s Enter Via Laundry, emphasises that adaptation is central to Indian cuisine.

She said: “Evolution is the only constant in Indian food because it has changed so much.”

Raichura avoids stereotypical Indian dishes, instead focusing on her family’s regional culinary traditions.

She was shocked by the lack of seasonal awareness in Western supermarkets:

“It was very shocking to me to see very bad quality tomatoes that you can still buy in winter… I was like, just don’t sell it.”

For her, the deep connection between food and seasonality enhances the eating experience.

Raichura added: “There are rituals and recipes at specific times of the year that are cherished.”

Curry & Identity

Much like Italian food has been altered by Western adaptations, Indian cuisine has been reshaped by colonisation and migration.

Many Indians struggle with ‘curry’ being used as an umbrella term for their diverse culinary heritage.

Dr Collingham said: “For the longest time ever, no self-respecting Indian said, ‘I’m going to have a curry tonight’… That wasn’t in the vocabulary.”

Canadian author Naben Ruthnum has explored the complexities of identity and food:

“I’m a postcolonial mess of a person over here who’s scraped together an identity that has very little to do with my country of origin.”

Despite its colonial roots, some Indians have reclaimed the term ‘curry’ as part of their modern culinary identity.

Ruthnum said:

“To me, it’s come to sort of represent a blend of identities.”

“It’s come to represent a food that I really like, and it’s come to represent all the things that I didn’t really understand about history and myself.”

Today, Indian cuisine continues to evolve.

While ‘curry’ remains a widely used term in the West, many chefs and food historians emphasise the importance of understanding regional Indian dishes beyond this generic label.

Authentic Indian food is deeply tied to history, geography, and tradition.

Recognising the true origins of these dishes helps preserve their rich culinary heritage.

Whether we use the word ‘curry’ or not, Indian food is far more than a single dish, it is a diverse, evolving cuisine with a story that deserves to be told accurately.